Friday, June 27, 2014

Pompeii and Napoli

We spent a couple days in Pompeii and one in Napoli last week. Exploring the archaeological ruins of Pompeii was everything it could have been. The crowds were scarce most of the time and we gained a ton of insight into how Roman cities were designed and how people lived in every segment of society. So often all that is left of a place are its monuments and religious artifacts which only tells a tiny piece of a culture's story. A medium-sized city preserved in time tells the stories of thousands in way it never could have if the Pompeii had continued on, progressed and changed over many centuries. We walked in villas and store fronts, baths and even a brothel.

This is the theater. When you stand in the center of floor you can hear your voice reverberate. A tour guide said it was like the first microphone. The second picture is a view of backstage.

Emily is trying out the crosswalk. The grooves between the center stone are from chariots. The design also allowed water to pass through.

A house. The rectangle on the ground was once a reflecting pool.

An area where quite a bit of work still needs to be done.

Cody, Live at Pompeii!

Like any city today, Pompeii had a restaurant row where people could grab a quick bite during the day as Pompeiians generally didn't go home for lunch.
Here is one place... 
And a competitor a few doors down.

We ducked in to get out of a thunderstorm, where Emily decided to make something for Daddy. My favorite part of the day.

"Where's the spatula?"

Inside a villa. Here we learned that reflecting pools, which were just past the entryway, were beautiful, but also meant to collect rainwater through a skylight. The water would drain into a reserve to be used for emergencies. Pretty brilliant.

The volcanic stones used for the streets are water proof. This shows the road design in action.

Above is the panificio, or bakery. Donkeys circled the mills, grinding the grain into flour.

Single stone cross walks indicate a one way street.

From the House of the Faun. The large mosaic depicts Alexander the Great in battle. The original is in the National Archaeological Museum.

We wandered into a long passageway to find ourselves in the baths.

Mt. Vesuvius from the Forum.

On the second day as Emily neared her limit, she and I headed to the hotel. Cody ended up staying for hours longer, and as the tour groups left, he found himself with Pompeii almost completely to himself. He found some archaeologists dusting around, took his time wandering though the baths with no crowds and no toddler dividing his attention. He said this ghost town was kind of eerie but it was one of the best experiences he could have had, and given his love of antiquities, I'm so glad he did, and I'm trying hard not to be even a little jealous.

My camera kept dying so I wish I could bombard you with the Necropoli and that unmarked villa with a mosaic of Nero and everything else we saw in the small piece of Pompeii we covered. I don't think we had even made it to our house before we were planning for our next visit. It just astounds me that an entire city can be buried and forgotten.

After two days in Pompeii, we were scheduled to hop on the Circumvesuviana to check into our hotel in Napoli, then spend an evening and one full day taking in the city. The night before we got curious about those buses that take you up the volcano to spend a few hours hiking around the rim. After checkout we had to make a last minute decision on whether to run down the street and catch a ride. Tickets were steep, but it was leaving in a few minutes and ahh! let's just do it! We can do this real fast then leave, no problem! Once in a lifetime, right?!

The bus, already full took us on a half hour drive to a parking lot where we waited for another, more rugged vehicle to come down the mountain, unload passengers and pick us up. From there it was a very bumpy ride. I was nervous, watching rain leak into the bus, as Cody had said sometimes it gets cancelled when storms wash out the roads and the buses can't make it up the steep single lane road. We finally made it to the drop off point halfway up Vesuvius, and watched the bus disappear. A long line of people waited at the ticket booth. A woman walked up to us and told us to wait, not go any further. Thunder clouds passed uncomfortably close overhead.

Several minutes passed. A man finally emerged in the crowd and said, "Attention...We have a big problem., uh...took a guy. So the park is closed. Now we all wait for shuttles and go back down where we argue about tickets. For now, close your umbrellas and turn off your cell phones." I was disappointed but you could not get me out of there fast enough. Three buses reappeared and the crowds mobbed to get on. We made the last one. The engine began to smoke, and we waited to be rescued with another shuttle. That got us to the transfer point where we spent another hour (to her credit, Emily was happy to be climbing on seats and didn't mind at all). Then the half hour back to Pompeii. We hopped on the next train to the city, crashed in our room too tired and famished to go anywhere. The next morning, I pulled open the curtains to see Vesuvius, stark against a clear blue sky. "Looks like a nice day to go for a hike, doesn't it?"


Napoli has the most screwed up, sketchy train system I've ever seen. We wanted to get to the metro line which would take us to the Archaeological Museum, and had the joy of dealing with an exasperated clerk giving us directions in broken English twice. A map, ANY MAP posted on ANY WALL would have saved us all a lot of trouble and time, but that station had none, so.

The Museum was a bit of a letdown. No plaster casts to be seen, and the Egyptian exhibit was closed. There were very beautiful artifacts taken from Pompeii and that made the trip worth it, but Emily was disappointed she couldn't see the "people who turned into rocks," which was her main motivation for behaving all morning.

This is what a villa's entryway looked something like. The pillars would have stood by the corners of the reflecting pool.

From there we decided to try a Rick Steves recommended pizza joint, La Antica Pizzeria da Michele. They serve two pizzas, cheese or no cheese, and a handful of drinks. The line for a table is out the door. Supposedly it's one of the originators of the modern pizza, and a local favorite. And we could. not. find. it. The romantic stroll I envisioned before sitting down for lunch turned into a furious hangry march in circles, where one's hands were thrown in the air, and locals had no idea what I was looking for because I was mispronouncing it and the gps wasn't updating our location and people were driving like maniacs. After forever we located the damn place, and as we stood in a crowd of backpackers, one of those tacky red hop on hop off buses that I couldn't let myself buy tickets for paused in front of us. The driver pointed to the pizzeria and the happy tourists smiled, sitting pretty as could be. I hate them.

The pizza, at least, was good and very fresh.

The city center is crowded and touristy in some regards, but the people hanging out in folding chairs on the street or watching from their balconies always had a ready smile. It's congested and I wasn't super comfortable navigating the stroller with Vespas whizzing by as the sidewalks were often blocked with things for sale- but the locals, some of whom looked like they had been selling fruit on the street corner for 50 years, looked like there was no where else they would rather be than in Old Napoli. As for me, I'd be happy to never leave the ruins on our next adventure.

Things to know if you are travelling to Napoli and Pompeii:

The airport does not have a train linking travelers to the main train station. You have to take either a cab or Alibus, the airport's coach. It runs about every 30-40 minutes. You can buy tickets from the driver. Expect to be crammed in.

In a city with as many motorists, pedestrians, and cyclists as Napoli has traffic laws are a pretty much ignored. The Alibus ride was a real adventure. Mopeds darted from the opposite lane in front of the bus causing it to brake. The moped drivers cursed at the bus for getting in their way.

If you only want to do a day trip to Pompeii or only have a couple hours, the Porta Marina entrance is right across from the train stop, and that's where all the highlights are. If you have more time and want to bypass crowds, the far entrance closest to the amphitheater is best. You can purchase either a one day pass, or a 5 site pass.

If there is the slightest chance of thunder don't bother with the volcano. Don't lose a day like we did!

If you have pizza no where else in Italy, eat it in Napoli, where it was invented.

Saturday, May 24, 2014

Parco della Cascate

Today we drove up into the mountains north of Verona to hike at the Waterfall Park, Parco della Cascate. Several trails loop through the park where you can see the falls, zip line, swing over the water, picnic, explore grottos, and top it all off with lunch in the village of Molina. We had planned on doing an easy short walk, but there was so much neat stuff pulling us in every direction, before we knew it we found ourselves hiking the toughest steepest trail to get to a beautiful panoramic lookout point. Surprisingly Emily managed most of that route on her own-climbing is fun, after all!

This is grotto is said to have been used as a shelter for prehistoric hunters.